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April 29, 2015

Environmental Hygienist Phillip Fry Explains How

To Remove Attic Mold Safely and Effectively


“Attic mold growth is a major and common problem in homes and commercial buildings in the USA, Canada, UK, Europe, Asia, and world-wide because of roof leaks and/or inadequate attic ventilation,” notes Phillip Fry, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Professional Industrial Hygienist, author of five mold books,  and webmaster since 1999 of the frequently-visited educational website www.moldinspector.com.

Fry recommends that the following Upkeep Masters, LLC, proven eighteen steps be taken for the safe and effective removal of attic mold growth---

1. Find and repair all roof leaks that enable water to get into the attic.

2. Increase attic ventilation by adding more roof vents, more roof overhang soffit vents, and a humidstat-controlled electric exhaust fan in the attic that turns on automatically to exhaust humid attic air outward whenever the attic humidity hits a humidstat setting such as 50 to 60% humidity.  

3. All attic mold removal workers must wear at all times in the attic the following personal protective equipment: respirator mask with filters rated to collect volatile organic compounds, eye goggles with no holes (“Chem-Splash” type), disposable vinyl gloves, and Tyvek or comparable enviro body suits with built in park hoods and booties.

4. Take mold test surface samplings of the worst attic mold growth, as well as of the attic air, to serve as a comparison benchmark later after mold removal when clearance tests are done in the attic to determine how successfully and totally the mold has been removed.

5. Seal off the attic area from the rest of the house or building with an entry and exit chamber or room made of 6 mil thick, clear plastic sheeting, with a zippered entrance cut and taped into the plastic sheeting. The sheeting must be tight wall to wall and floor to ceiling.

6. Do an initial kill of as much attic mold as possible by running high output ozone generators for eight hours in the attic. Learn about the mold-killing effectiveness of ozone blasters at www.ozonegeneratorkillsmold.com.

7. Lift up the insulation bats or check beneath other types of insulation to investigate whether mold growth has spread to the timbers and flooring alongside and beneath the insulation.

8. If there is mold growth along side or beneath the insulation, or on the paper backing of insulation or on dust and dirt that has settled onto the insulation material, of if the insulation is wet or has been wet, remove and discard the insulation.  Install new insulation after the attic mold remediation project is done, including successful clearance testing. 

9. If there has been no mold contamination of the insulation and the insulation looks good, or after the removal of mold-impacted insulation, cover the attic floor with new, thick cloth coverings to protect it from mold cross contamination and falling debris generated by the blasting or grinding processes used in the attic mold removal process. Put two foot wide plywood walkways on top of the cloth covering so that workers can do the mold remediation steps without stepping through the ceilings below the attic.

10. During the attic mold removal process, maintain negative air pressure inside the attic by connecting one or more air scrubbers with flexible hosing from the attic area to the scrubbers that will be located on the ground or elsewhere in the building.  Air scrubbers use large, thick HEPA filters to remove airborne mold spores and activated carbon filters to remove airborne mold mycotoxins (poisonous, volatile organic compound gases thrown into the air during toxic mold growth). Air scrubbers remove over 99% of airborne mold spores and mycotoxins, with the scrubber output directly vented by more flexible hosing to the outdoors. Negative air pressure makes the entire attic into a giant vacuum cleaner by continually removing more attic air than is coming into the attic.

11. HEPA vacuum all attic timbers to remove as much landed dirt and mold spores
as possible.

12. Use high pressure abrasive blasting or grinders with wire brush attachments to remove all surface mold growth to make the cleaned wood surfaces visibly mold-free.

13. Do a second HEPA vacuuming of all attic timbers as well as vacuuming up the removed mold spores and wood debris now resting on top of the floor covering as the result of the abrasive mold removal step described above.

14. Rollup the cloth floor coverings and put them into 6 mil thick contractor trash bags. Then put each bag inside a second bag (“double bagging”). Remove these bags throw an attic window or the closest other window or door.

15. Follow up with a second eight hour high output ozone gas treatment.

16. After the second ozone treatment, fog an EPA-registered fungicide throughout the entire attic as an additional mold-killing step.

17. After the fungicidal fogging, spray all attic wood surfaces with a see-through clear, EPA-registered anti-microbial, encapsulation coating to help prevent future mold growth. Don’t use a white or black coating that would hide future mold growth or mold not properly removed in the current mold removal project.

18. Take surface samples from the cleaned wood plus attic air samples for lab analysis to compare the levels of mold after mold remediation with the mold levels existing before the project. If mold levels are still high, repeat one or more of the above steps so that the attic finally tests as mold-safe.

To get an EnviroFry Upkeep Masters, LLC, bid to remove mold growth anywhere in a residence, commercial building, or workplace in Midwestern, Eastern, and Southern USA, email mold consultant Phillip Fry phil@moldinspector.com, or phone toll-free 866-300-1616 or cell 480-310-7970, or visit website: www.moldexpertconsultants.com.

Attic Mold Inspection and Testing

       Q. March 29, 2012. Your web site is very helpful thank you. Have a question. I have mold growth in my attic rafters and plywood at the north end of the house above two bathrooms and bedrooms. My solution is to add ventilation (roof and soffit vents), remove insulation from touching rafters (former owner had too much insulation put in), add bathroom fans and seal gaps in ceiling with spray foam. I intend to seal off the room with access to the attic and remove the mold and insulation with proper clothing. I had the mold tested and is Penicillium mold species and growth does not appear to be heavy. My question is do I need to bag and remove all of the insulation or is it ok to remove just the insulation below the mold growth? It is a small attic on upper floor attic of a tri-level house and is about 20 feet wide.
     
A. Airborne mold spores from that portion of the attic and insulation that is mold infested will have traveled in air currents to mold cross contaminate all of the other insulation and all of the other surfaces in the attic. As a wise safety precaution, I recommend that you discard all of the insulation and replace with new insulation. After you have removed all of the insulation, you will better be able to do a thorough mold inspection of the timbers and floor of the attic. Remove all visible mold growth on attic lumber by following the step by step mold remediation procedures.  Whether or not there was mold (prior to your mold removal), spray all wood surfaces in the attic with at least two separate heavy coatings of boric acid mix (with fan drying in between your spray applications) to kill any unseen mold spores (too small for naked eye to see) and mold growth and, more important, to protect against future mold growth. The deposited, dried, white boric crystals are great for mold prevention. You can read the best boric mix formula and buy boric at http://www.moldmart.net.  Your outlined mold remediation steps are well thought out and will do a great job of attic mold remediation when combined with my suggestions above to you. If I may be of further help, just email me. In service, Phillip Fry, mold consultant, Certified Environmental Hygienist, Certified Mold Inspector, and Certified Mold Remediator
 

      Q. Dec. 20, 2011. Here’s a description of our home health problems. We moved into our two-story house in 2004.  About three years ago my allergies became noticeably worse in this house.  I have not seen any mold in the house, and I find it difficult to determine the source of my allergies.  Here’s what I have found out as well as some speculation on my part. A possible contributor to my allergies is that the chimney cap blew off three years ago in the spring and we didn’t get it replaced until the fall.  Rain was able to fall directly into the attic and may have gotten into the ventilation system as well.  Several upstairs rooms smelled a bit musty and sniffing around I found the odor was strongest by the ceiling drywall.  I went into the attic and dug under the deep insulation but did not find any signs of water damage on the drywall.  I suppose it is possible, given the deep insulation in the attic, that the drywall was exposed to moisture but never became saturated and acquired a musty smell without any visible signs of water damage; just like a book can have a musty smell and still look OK.  The insulation by the way is made of some non-flammable material, so I don’t think mold could grow on that.  There is also a board that blew off the outside of our bedroom wall during a strong wind, and some moisture could be getting in through there. l also smelled a musty odor coming from the vents when my allergies became worse.  I purchased a HEPA air cleaner for my home office and that helped in that room.  However, when I moved the cleaner to my bedroom at night my allergies seemed worse (perhaps it stirred up allergens), so I keep the air cleaner in my home office only, and try to deal with the allergens in my bedroom.  We just recently had the ducts cleaned so I’m hoping that will help minimize allergens in the air. Here’s some other information about the home that may be pertinent.  The air conditioner is 40 to 50 years old and hasn’t been cleaned for quite a while.  The guy who cleans the furnace and air conditioner said he was afraid he would break the unit if he opened it up for cleaning. Half of the basement is finished and has medium length shag carpeting, wallpaper on top of dry wall, and suspended ceiling tiles that can be pushed up to remove them.  In the other half of the basement (unfinished) we store paper surveys for our business for up to a year before we throw them out.  We also have a washer and dryer down there.  The basement has a dehumidifier which usually keeps the basement at or below 65% humidity which seems to be the best that machine can do. Our main floor and 2nd floor are both all hardwood, except for a 10x12 portable area rug in the living room. I did some mold tests a couple years ago throughout the house.  The basement test did have a couple circles of mold that grew in the petri dish.  The area rug in the living room might have caused a spot of mold to grow in a petri dish as well.  I did a test of some vents by running the HVAC fan without the heating or cooling being turned on.  It’s been a while, but I don’t remember any of the vents tested showing signs of mold.  Still there has been an odor coming from the vents that smells a bit musty to me.  I did an outdoor mold test at the same time, which showed a lot of mold, yet my allergies were less severe with the window open at night.  Perhaps I became overly sensitive to the varieties of mold in the house. I currently have trouble sleeping through the night in my bedroom, awaking halfway through the night with a sore throat, and bothered eyes and ears.  My sleep is only a little better on the couch on the main floor.  I can’t nail down what the primary culprits are.  Is it more of a mold problem, more of a dust mite problem, some of each?  And where are these allergens primarily coming from?  My guess is that it’s more of a mold issue since a musty book can really bother me.  Do you have some suggestions?

    A. If the insulation is made of shredded paper (even if fire-retardant) or has a paper backing (e.g., backing for fiberglass insulation), that paper will grow mold if wet or in high humidity. The rain penetration of the attic and your home mold smell mean that you do have mold growth in the attic insulation and probably in the attic floor and ceiling flow below.  Remove and replace the insulation (atternatively, please mold remediate it after temporary removal by the two methods explained next): high ozone blasting (http://www.envirodetectives.com/ozone_blasting.htm) and fogging boric acid powder (http://www.moldmart.net). Do ozone blasting of the attic are for at least two hours with the Pro-Rugged Double Ozone Bio3Blaster. Then, do fogging of the entire area using at least 10 to 20 pounds of boric acid powder, mixed in hot water.  You can buy the low cost, top-rated Hurricane model fogger from www.dynafog.com. You were wise to do the duct cleaning, but you also need to do ozone blasting and boric acid powder fogging of your entire heating/cooling equipment and ducts. Air con equipment and ducts need cleaning at least every three months to avoid mold infestation. Please visit Air Conditioning Mold. Replace your outdated air con equipment with new, energy efficient equipment that is readily cleanable. When you smell mold in the outward HVAC air flow, there is mold infestation therein regardless of your prior mold testing results.  I hope you have replaced and water-proofed/sealed the missing siding board. To help reduce airborne mold spores, please buy and use several additional, high-volume HEPA air cleaners in various areas of your house. In your basement, install a supplemental programmable dehumidifier. Set your present and new dehumidifiers to keep basement humidity to no higher than 55% to prevent basement mold growth. Your health problems are typical health symptoms of living or working in mold infestation.  In addition to the ozone generator use explained above, you also need to do ozone blasting of your basement and all living areas. Be sure to read the important safety and use cautions posted in the user manual at http://www.envirodetectives.com/ozone_blasting.htm. You are my mold advice client. Let me help you in every way to lead a better, mold-safe life. Keep those questions coming----Phillip Fry, mold expert.
 

       Q. We just had a house inspected that we were interested in buying. When the attic of the house was insulated the vents in the roof got covered. As a result our inspector found a pretty bad case of mold in the attic. We don't know what to do. It has been suggested that removing it might cause it to spread to other areas of the house?? It's also been suggested that the covered vents could be fixed and the mold would remain but not get worse? As far as I know the mold hasn't spread but I'm not 100% sure on that. The inspector was very thorough but I'm not sure it we was abler to tell about it spreading or not. Is this something that needs to be removed completely? Would freeing up the vents help out? Should we just forget about the house and move on? [June 24, 2005]

 

        A. It is very easy for attic mold to grow into the insides of the walls and ceilings below. In addition, airborne mold spores from the attic mold will travel in air currents to mold cross contaminate the entire home [by exiting thru the attic vents and then entering through open windows and doors and the fresh air intake of the home's heating/cooling system]. The existing mold infestation visible in the attic [plus any hidden mold infestations including infestation of the heating/cooling equipment and ducts and the rest of the house] need to be removed in accordance with the 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation. Freeing up the vents helps increase the attic ventilation to avoid future mold problems, but it does not solve the existing mold infestation. Your first step, if you really want to know the true mold status of the home, is to hire a Certified Mold Inspector to thoroughly mold inspect the entire house, including inside walls, ceilings, floors, and the heating/cooling equipment and ducts. Expect to pay at least $500 to $1500 for comprehensive mold inspection and testing, including mold lab analysis and mold species identification of collected mold samples. Or use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store.

         Q. I am writing for some advice regarding mold found in the attic of our prospective new home. This home was built in 1990 and has bathroom ventilation that vents into the attic. After sending in a private home inspection it was found that mold formed in about 40-48 sq. feet area in the attic where the vent is. It is unknown whether the mold has spread but visually it appears to be contained where the vent is. There are 2 small windows in the attic that were closed which may have contributed to the problem. At this point the current home owners are not willing to hire someone to clean and remove the mold but are considering giving us a credit for the cost of hiring someone to clean it after closing. Our concern is that the mold may be toxic and may have spread in areas we cannot see therefore creating more cost than the credit given. In your professional opinion and based on the description of how the mold appeared to develop, do you think this will be an ongoing issue and if the expense will be greater in the long run. It is also important to note that should be purchase the home, we are planning on running the vent outside the attic.

 

         A. You can safely presume that the attic mold may well have grown into the ceilings and walls beneath. You can also presume that it is very likely that airborne mold spores from the attic mold may well have traveled in air currents to mold cross contaminate the entire house and its heating/cooling system by entering the home through the attic access opening, open windows and doors, and the fresh air intake of the heating/cooling system. The best way to know for sure about the mold cross contamination and the extent of the mold problem is to hire a Certified Mold Inspector. Even if you were to find and fix all hidden mold problems, you would still own a home with a mold history that you would probably be required to disclose to any future buyers or tenants. Learn the 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation. Expect that mold remediation will be challenging and expensive, especially if the mold has grown into the ceilings, walls, or heating/cooling system.
    

         Q. I am a stay at home mom of two in Canada, and I have animal and seasonal allergies and asthma. Early last year my allergies became quite bothersome. I went to get my allergies tested again and I was now strongly allergic to everything including all moulds and dust. (excepting almost all foods) I have taken all of my carpets out, put in an expensive air cleaner and live on antihistamines and inhalers. This past winter my whole family has been sick with colds, ear infections that won’t go away, bronchitis etc. My husband and I wake up every morning with sinus headaches. We have put a couple of small holes in our walls looking for mould. We found mould in our attic covering a couple sheets of wood. We are getting our roof done next week and having our plywood replaced but it is still going to be on a couple of trusses. I have also found mould under our bathroom trim. What I need is advice on how to clean or get rid of the mould and if you think we should have our whole house tested. We are scraping the money together for our roof and do not know how to get our house healthy without it costing a lot of money. Any help would be great. [April 29, 2005]
        A. Attic mould can easily grow into the walls and ceilings below. In addition, airborne mould spores can travel in air currents to mould cross contaminate your entire home and its heating/cooling system by entering your open windows and doors and your heating/cooling system fresh air intake. You would be wise to follow the do it yourself mould inspection and mould testing tips provided at Mould Inspection. Your finding mould under the bathroom trim is a good indication that you may have mold growth inside walls and ceiling. You need to cut small test holes to check for internal wall and ceiling mold infestation. Learn the 25 steps for safe and effective, do-it-best-yourself mould remediation.
 
        
Q. I am a physician [M.D. and surgeon]. Consider a residence with a 700 sq. ft. attic that is accessed thru a trap door in a bedroom closet on second story. It is not used for storage or never entered except for rare repairs. Attic has adequate soffit, baffle and ridge venting. What is the health risk to the residents of exposure to any attic mold in  this situation where there is NO circulation of attic air into the vent system and air-space of the living quarters? [December 19, 2004]
        
A. Doctor, your questions are logical and well-put. The better the questions, the better are my answers! Attic mold easily grows into the insides of the ceilings and walls below. Moreover, elevated levels of airborne mold spores from the attic mold can escape through the attic venting [you so well described] to re-enter and cross-contaminate the house through open windows, open doors, and the fresh air intake of heating/cooling systems. It is also common that there are holes or cracks in the heating/cooling service ducts running in the attic area which can allow airborne mold spores to enter the heating/cooling ducts for re-distribution throughout the entire house. On a more practical note, if the homeowner ever wishes to re-sell the moldy home in the future, prospective buyers are going to lose interest in the home after their hired mold inspectors or even regular home inspectors report an attic mold infestation problem, or worse.  If your home has an attic mold problem now, learn the 25 steps recommended for safe and effective mold remediation and mold abatement.

        Q. I recently looked in my attic a noted that the OSB sheathing is black in color. Is this mold? It appears that the attic may not be vented properly. Is this a concern and what should I do about it. [July 8, 2004]
      
A. It is very likely that the blackness you see is mold growth. Attic mold easily grows into the ceilings and walls below. In addition, airborne mold spores from the attic mold can easily travel in air currents to mold cross-contaminate your entire home and its heating/cooling system. Your first step is total home mold testing with do-it-yourself mold test kits from a large hardware or home improvement store or with a Certified Mold Inspector. Your first and most affordable mold investigative step to learn the severity and the extent of the possible mold infestation is to use do it yourself mold test kits [self observation of results over a 5 to 7 day time period, or send to a mold laboratory for mold lab analysis] to mold test the air of each room, attic, basement, crawl space, and the outward air flow from each heating/cooling duct register for the possible presence of elevated levels of airborne mold spores, in comparison to an outdoor mold control test which you should also do. If you see any visible mold growth, from each moldy area, scrape some of the mold particles into a separate mold test kit per testing location for observation over a 5 to 7 day time period, and/or for mold lab analysis. When scraping mold into a mold test kit, you would be wise to use a breathing air respirator [Home Depot or Lowe’s or a safety store] so that you don’t breathe in extra mold spores that you put into the air by scraping some mold-like substances into each mold test kit.   Mold test kits come with detailed use instructions to make your tests informative and helpful in mold problem diagnosis.  Learn how to do your own, self-observation analysis of mold test kit results at Mold Testing Interpretation. You can also read online our copyrighted form “Self-Analysis & Interpretation of Visible Mold Growth in Do-It-Yourself Mold Test kits.” Use do it yourself mold test kits from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store.  Learn the steps required for safe and effective mold remediation and mold abatement.   You should install very effective attic ventilation to help keep attic humidity to a low-range. You may have to install a programmable dehumidifier in the attic, as well. Or alternatively, you might install an exhaust fan that turns on at pre-set temperatures and/or preset humidity levels [60% or more indoor humidity enables mold to grow big-time]. You will need to remove and replace the blackened OSB and any other mold-contaminated building materials. You will need to either clean all timbers of mold growth [e.g., power planer, power grinder with wire brush attachment, power sander] or replace with mold-free lumber.
        Q.
I have a customer wanting to buy a condominium and mold was discovered in the attic from the bathroom fans venting into the attic. The insulation is black with mold as well as the plywood sheathing on the roof. The seller thinks that if he just redirects the vent to the outside this should be all that is needed. Now, I think this is just the first step. Is it safe for the insulation to stay where it is and the roof plywood to stay  without any clean up? [June 30, 2003]
        A. The insulation will have to be thrown out. The mold growing on the wood will have to be completely removed by a power planer and a wire brush attached to a grinder----or, better, replaced with new mold-free materials. Learn the 25 steps for safe and effective mold remediation.

 Photograph of ceiing mold growth problem.
Advanced case of mold growth on the outside and inside of a drywall ceiling, caused by a
roof leak which enabled mold to grow in both the attic and the ceiling below.

Photograph of mold growing on roof sheathing in attic.
Close up photo of mold growth on the underside of roof plywood sheathing in attic.

Photograph of Penicillium mold growing in an attic.
Attic mold infestation. The bluish green mold is Penicillium, the second most danger toxic mold.

Photograph of mold growing in a United Kingdom home.
Serious loft [attic] mold growth in a home in the United Kingdom.

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How To Order Mold and Enviro Products by Phone and Email
PHONE ORDER: You can place your order by phoning mold consultant Phillip Fry Toll-Free 1-866-300-1616
or Phillip's cell phone 1-480-310-7970 USA/Canada, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Saturday.
EMAIL ORDER:  You can also email your order by printing, completing, and emailing the Email Order Form.

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Use high ozone blasting to kill mold, viruses, bacteria, and odors .

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Copyright 2014 Environmental Hygienists Association   All Rights Reserved  Last Updated: Nov. 28, 2014
For mold inspection, mold remediation, and mold prevention for your real estate property anywhere in the world, please contact
mold consultants Phillip Fry and Divine Fry  email phil@moldinspector.com or call Phillip Toll-Free 1-866-300-1616 or cell phone 1-480-310-7970